How to Make Wines

Making Wine - BLACKBERRY AND ELDERBERRY WINE Recipe

Making BERRY WINES BLACKBERRY AND ELDERBERRY WINE Recipes

RECIPES: (BERRY WINES)
2. BLACKBERRY AND ELDERBERRY WINE (Port Style):

2 1/2lb. elderberries, 2 1/2lb. blackberries, 7pts. water,

3 1/2lb. sugar (or 4lb. invert), port yeast, nutrient.

Use method 1. Ferment the pulp after crushing and mixing

together.

–

BLACKBERRY WINE (1) [Heavy Bodied]

* 6 lb blackberries
* 2-1/2 lb granulated sugar
* 1/2 tsp pectic enzyme
* 7 pts water
* wine yeast and nutrient

Wash berries thoroughly in colander, then crush in bowl, trasnfer to primary fermentation vessel, and pour 7 pts. boiling water over must. Allow to steep for two days, then strain through nylon sieve onto the sugar. Stir well to dissolve sugar, add pectic enzyme, cover well, and set aside for 24 hours. Add yeast and nutrient, cover, and set aside 5-6 days, stirring daily. Pour into secondary fermentation vessel of dark glass (or wrap clear glass with brown paper), filling only to the upper shoulder of the secodary, and fit airlock. Leftover must should be placed in a 1.5-liter wine bottle with airlock (a #2 bung fits most 1.5-liter wine bottles) and used for topping up. Top up when all danger of foaming over is past. Place in cool (60-65 degrees F.) dark place for three months. Rack, allow another two months to finish, then rack again and bottle in dark glass. Allow 6 months to age, a year to mature. [Adapted from C.J.J. Berry's 130 New Winemaking Recipes]

BLACKBERRY WINE (2) [Medium Bodied Dry]

* 4 lb blackberries
* 2-1/4 lb granulated sugar
* 1/2 tsp pectic enzyme
* 1/2 tsp acid blend
* crushed Campden tablet
* 7 pts water
* wine yeast and nutrient

Pick fully ripe, best quality berries. Wash thoroughly and place in nylon jelly-bag. Mash and squeeze out all juice into primary fermentation vessel. Tie jelly-bag and place in primary fermentation vessel with all ingredients except yeast. Stir well to dissolve sugar, cover well, and set aside for 24 hours. Add yeast, cover, and set aside 5 days, stirring daily. Strain juice from jelly-bag and siphon off sediments into secondary fermentation vessel of dark glass (or wrap clear glass with brown paper), filling only to the upper shoulder of the secodary, and fit airlock. Leftover must should be placed in a 750-ml wine bottle with airlock (a #2 bung fits most wine bottles) and used for topping up. Top up when all danger of foaming over is past. Place in cool (60-65 degrees F.) dark place for three weeks. Rack, allow another two months to finish, then rack again and bottle in dark glass. Allow a year to mature to a nice semi-sec. [Adapted from Raymond Massaccesi's Winemaker's Recipe Handbook]

BLACKBERRY WINE (3) [Medium Bodied Sweet]

* 4 lb blackberries
* 3 lb granulated sugar
* 1 gallon water
* wine yeast and nutrient

Pick fully ripe, best quality berries. Wash thoroughly in colander, then crush in bowl, transfer to primary fermentation vessel, and add gallon of boiling water, mixing thoroughly. When lukewarn (70 degrees F.), add yeast, cover, and set in warm (70-75 degrees F.) place 4-5 days, stirring daily. Strain throught very fine nylon sieve or double thickness of muslin onto sugar and nutrient. Stir well to dissolve sugar and pour into secondary fermentation vessel of dark glass (or wrap clear glass with brown paper) to top of shoulder, and fit airlock. Ferment excess liquor in appropriately sized bottle fitted with airlock or covered with plastic wrap held by rubber band. After all foaming has ceased (6-7 days), top up with excess liquor and place in cool (60-65 degrees F.) dark place for three months. Rack, allow another two months to finish, then rack again and bottle in dark glass. Allow 6 months to age, a year to mature. [Adapted from C.J.J. Berry's 130 New Winemaking Recipes]

BLACKBERRY WINE (4) [Light Bodied Sweet]

* 3 lb blackberries
* 2-3/4 lb. granulated sugar
* 7 pts water
* wine yeast and nutrient

Pick fully ripe, best quality berries. Wash thoroughly in colander, then crush in bowl, transfer to primary fermentation vessel, and add water, mixing thoroughly. Allow to seep overnight, then strain through nylon sieve onto the sugar. Stir well to dissolve sugar, add yeast and nutrient, cover, and set in warm (70-75 degrees F.) place one week, stirring daily. Pour into secondary fermentation vessel of dark glass (or wrap clear glass with brown paper), filling only to the upper shoulder of the secodary, and fit airlock. Leftover must should be placed in a 750-ml wine bottle with airlock (a #2 bung fits most wine bottles) and used for topping up. Top up when all danger of foaming over is past. Place in cool (60-65 degrees F.) dark place for three months. Rack, allow another two months to finish, then rack again and bottle in dark glass. Allow 6 months to age, a year to mature. [Adapted from C.J.J. Berry's First Steps in Winemaking]

BRAZOS BLACKBERRY WINE [Heavy Bodied Dry]

* 5-6 lb. Brazos blackberries
* 2-1/2 lb. granulated sugar
* 1/2 tsp. pectic enzyme
* 7 pts. water
* wine yeast and nutrient

Pick only the deep black ripe ones, and don’t be too concerned about gathering those which are a few days past ripe. Wash the berries carefully but thoroughly in a colander. Crush them in a bowl or crock, trasnfer the must to a primary fermentation vessel, and pour 7 pts. boiling water over must. Allow to seep for two days, then strain through nylon sieve onto the sugar. Stir well to dissolve sugar, add pectic enzyme, cover well, and set aside for 24 hours. Add yeast and nutrient, cover, and set aside 5-6 days, stirring daily. Pour into secondary fermentation vessel of dark glass (or wrap clear glass with brown paper) to top of shoulder and fit airlock. Place in cool (60-65 degrees F.) dark place for three months. Rack, allow another two months to finish, then rack again and bottle in dark glass and store in a dark place. Allow 6 months to age, a year to mature. [Author's own recipe]

BLACKBERRY-BLACK-PLUM WINE

* 4 lbs blackberries
* 2 lbs black plums
* 2-1/4 lbs granulated sugar
* 7 pts water
* 1 tsp pectic enzyme
* 1 crushed Campden tablet
* wine yeast and nutrient

Put water on to boil. Meanwhile, wash and sort the blackberries and plums. Destone the plums and chop. In bowl, mash the plums and put in nylon straining bag. Add blackberries to bag, tie the end closed, and set in bottom of primary. Mash the blackberries in bag with potato masher or piece of hardwood. Add sugar to primary and pour boiling water over fruit pulp and sugar, stirring to dissolve sudar. Allow to cool to lukewarm, then add pectic enzyme, cover, and set aside two days. Add yeast and nutrient. Ferment 7 days, submerging and gently squeezing bag daily. Drip drain, transfer liquor to dark secondary and fit airlock. Set aside for 2 months. Rack and set aside another 2 months, then rack again. Allow to clear, then rack, refit airlock and bulk age another 4 months. Rack into bottles. Allow to age one year. [Author's own recipe]

BLACKBERRY-BLUEBERRY WINE

* 4 lbs blackberries
* 4 lb fresh or frozen blueberries
* 2 lbs granulated sugar
* 1 tsp pectic enzyme
* 1/2 tsp acid blend
* 3 qts water
* 1 tsp yeast nutrient
* wine yeast

Put water on to boil. Meanwhile, wash and sort blackberries and blueberries. Put fruit in nylon straining bag, tie end, put in primary, and mash fruit. Add sugar to primary and pour boiling water over fruit and sugar, stirring well to dissolve. Cover and allow to cool. When lukewarm, stir in acid blend, pectic enzyme and yeast nutrient. Recover, add yeast after 12 hours and gently squeeze bag twice daily for 7 days to extract flavors. Drip drain (do not squeeze) and pour liquid into secondary and fit airlock. After fermentation dies down (5-7 days) top up and refit airlock. Ferment 2 months and rack into clean secondary. Top up, refit airlock, and ferment until wine clears. Wait additional 2 months, rack into bottles and age 6-12 months. [Author's own recipe]

BLACKBERRY-ELDERBERRY WINE (1)

* 4 lb blackberries
* 2 lbs fresh elderberries
* 2-1/3 cups granulated sugar
* water to 1 gallon
* 1 tsp pectic enzyme
* 1/2 tsp acid blend
* 1 tsp yeast nutrient
* wine yeast

Put 3 quarts water on to boil. Meanwhile, wash and sort blackberries and elderberries. Put fruit in nylon straining bag, tie end, put in primary, and mash fruit. Add sugar to primary and pour boiling water over fruit and sugar, stirring well to dissolve sugar. Cover and allow to cool. When lukewarm, stir in acid blend, pectic enzyme and yeast nutrient. Recover, add yeast after 12 hours and gently squeeze bag twice daily for 7 days to extract flavors. Drain bag squeezing gently, pour liquid into secondary and fit airlock. After fermentation dies down (5-7 days) top up and refit airlock. Ferment 2 months and rack into clean secondary, top up and refit airlock. Repeat after additional 2 months and again after additional 3 months, racking into bottles. Age 6-12 months. [Author's own recipe]

BLACKBERRY-ELDERBERRY WINE (2)

* 4 lb blackberries
* 1/4 lb dried elderberries
* 2-1/3 cups granulated sugar
* water to 1 gallon
* 1 tsp pectic enzyme
* 1/2 tsp acid blend
* 1 tsp yeast nutrient
* wine yeast

Put 3 quarts water on to boil. Meanwhile, wash and sort blackberries and put in nylon straining bag. Tie end, put in primary and mash fruit. Add dried elderberries to boiling water, reduce heat and simmer 20 minutes. Add sugar to primary, untie nylon bag and pour boiling water into nylon straining bag. Carefully retie end and stir liquid well to dissolve sugar. Cover and allow to cool. When lukewarm, stir in acid blend, pectic enzyme and yeast nutrient. Recover primary. After 12 hours, add yeast. Gently squeeze bag twice daily for 7 days to extract flavors. Drain bag squeezing gently, pour liquid into secondary and fit airlock. After fermentation dies down (5-7 days) top up and refit airlock. Rack into clean secondary, top up and refit airlock every 2 months for total of 4 times. Bottle and age 6-12 months. [Author's own recipe]

BLACKBERRY-GRAPE CONCENTRATE WINE

* 3-4 lbs blackberries
* 12 oz red grape concentrate
* water to 3-1/2 quarts
* 2-1/4 lbs granulated sugar
* 1/2 tsp pectic enzyme
* 1 tsp yeast nutrient
* wine yeast

Put 3 quarts water on to boil. Meanwhile, wash and sort blackberries and put in nylon straining bag. Tie end, put in primary and mash fruit. Pour boiling water over fruit. Add grape concentrate and sugar and stir well to dissolve. Cover primary with cloth, wait until cooled, add pectic enzyme and yeast nutrient. After 12 hours add yeast, cover and ferment 5-7 days, squeezing bag daily. Drain into secondary, fit airlock and ferment 5 days. Top up, refit airlock and ferment another 2 months. Rack, top up, refit airlock, and repeat 2 months later. After additional 2 months, rack and bottle. Allow to age in bottles one year. [Author's own recipe]

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Making Wine - BERRY WINES Recipe

Making Wine - BERRY WINES Recipe

RECIPES 1 - 32 (BERRY WINES)

1. BLACKBERRY WINE (Port Style):

4lb. blackberries, 4lb. sugar (or 5lb. invert), 7pts.

water, port yeast, nutrient.

Use method 1. Ferment the pulp.

BLACKBERRY WINE (1) [Heavy Bodied]

* 6 lb blackberries
* 2-1/2 lb granulated sugar
* 1/2 tsp pectic enzyme
* 7 pts water
* wine yeast and nutrient

Wash berries thoroughly in colander, then crush in bowl, trasnfer to primary fermentation vessel, and pour 7 pts. boiling water over must. Allow to steep for two days, then strain through nylon sieve onto the sugar. Stir well to dissolve sugar, add pectic enzyme, cover well, and set aside for 24 hours. Add yeast and nutrient, cover, and set aside 5-6 days, stirring daily. Pour into secondary fermentation vessel of dark glass (or wrap clear glass with brown paper), filling only to the upper shoulder of the secodary, and fit airlock. Leftover must should be placed in a 1.5-liter wine bottle with airlock (a #2 bung fits most 1.5-liter wine bottles) and used for topping up. Top up when all danger of foaming over is past. Place in cool (60-65 degrees F.) dark place for three months. Rack, allow another two months to finish, then rack again and bottle in dark glass. Allow 6 months to age, a year to mature. [Adapted from C.J.J. Berry's 130 New Winemaking Recipes] winemaking

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METHOD 2 - continue

…Plug the  neck of the jar with cotton wool or fit a fermentation lock and ferment in  a warm place for fourteen days.

After this, boil the remaining sugar in the remaining half-pint of water for  one minute and when cool add it to the rest. refit the lock or plug the  neck of the jar with fresh cotton wool and leave in a warm place until all  fermentation has ceased. The recipes are designed to make one gallon of  wine, it two gallons are being made at once twice the amount of each  ingredient must be used (including Campden tablets) and the sugar and  water added in double quantities. This principle applies where three or  four gallons are being made and it is easy enough to work out. Just to be  sure that mistakes do not occur when adding the syrup-sugar and water- stick a label on the jar and note on this the amount added. Readers will be  quick to appreciate that certain fruits are more suitable than others for  making certain types of wine. Clearly, it would be as hopeless to try to  make port from rhubarb as it would be to try to grow potatoes on a pear  tree, and I think it is in this respect that many people go astray; they make  wines from the cheapest and most readily available fruits (naturally  enough) but they do not give the slightest thought to what the result will  be or whether they will like it or not. Before you begin decide on the  type of wine you are most likely to prefer and then use the fruit and the  method which will make this type of wine. Elderberries make an  excellent port-style wine and many variations, each with the basic port  style underlying them, so that from this lowly wild fruit we may obtain  not only a full-bodied port-style wine, but also a Burgundy style, a claret  and others according to the whim of the operator.
Blackberries make similar wines, as do certain varieties of plumbs,  damsons and black currants. The juice from lighter-colored fruit such as  raspberries, loganberries, red and white currants and others make  excellent table wines. But there is no need to cover this aspect fully here  because every recipe is preceded by the name of the type or style of wine  that can be expected from each recipe. I say ‘expected’ because to  guarantee that the wine will be identical to the one expected would be  unwise, but only because the amounts of sugar and acid present in the  fruits vary from season to season-indeed, they vary with the type of tree,  soil, situation and with the sort of summer we have had while the fruits  have been growing. A hot summer produces fruits containing more sugar  and less acid than a wet sunless summer, when the effect is the reverse.
In each recipe appears the name of the best yeast to use and this is best  added as a nucleus as already described. If you must ‘use bakers’ yeast or a dried yeast, merely sprinkle it over the surface of the ‘must’ at the time  given in the method you are using.
A final word. Make sure all fruits are ripe. This is far more important than  most people imagine. Half-ripe fruits or those with green patches on them  should be discarded as it needs only one or two of these to give a gallon  of wine an acid bite. Fully ripe fruit is essential if we hope to make the  best wine.
When we have decided that our garden fruits are ripe enough or those you  have your eye on in the hedgerows, leave them for another three or four  days before gathering.

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METHOD 2

METHOD 2
Crush the fruit in a polythene pail and add one quart of boiled water that  has cooled. Mix well. Crush one Campden tablet and dissolve the powder  in about half an egg cupful of warm water and mix this with the fruit  pulp. Leave the mixture in a cool place for twenty-four hours, stirring  twice during that time. Strain through fine muslin or other similar  material and squeeze gently but not too hard. Discard the fruit pulp.

Then boil one-third of the sugar in half a gallon of water for one minute  and allow to cool. Mix this with the juice and return the lot to the  polythene pail. Then add the yeast (or nucleus), and ferment for ten days.  After this, pour the top wine into a gallon jar leaving as much of the  deposit behind as you can. Boil another one-third of the sugar in half a pint of water for one minute and when it is cool add it to the rest. Plug the  neck of the jar with cotton wool or fit a fermentation lock and ferment in  a warm place for fourteen days.

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Method 1

Crush the fruit by hand in a polythene pail and pour on one quart of  boiled water that has cooled. Mix well. Crush one campden tablet and  dissolve the power in about half an egg cupful of warm water and mix  this with the fruit pulp.  Leave the mixture for one or two hours. A little bleaching will take place  but this is nothing to worry about. After this, take one-third of the sugar  to be used (or approximately one-third) and boil this for one minute in  three pints of water.

Allow this syrup to cool and then stir into the pulp. Then add the yeast (or  nucleus) and ferment for seven days. After seven days, strain the pulp  through fine muslin or other similar material and wring out as dry as you  can. Put the strained wine into a gallon jar and throw the pulp away. Then  boil another one-third of the sugar in one pint of water for one minute and  when this has cooled add it to the rest. Plug the neck of the jar with cotton  wool or fit a fermentation lock and continue to ferment in a warm place  for a further ten days.

At this stage, if you have not a spare jar, pour the wine into a polythene  pail leaving as much of the deposit in the jar as you can. Clean out the  jar, sterilize it and return the wine to this. The remaining one-third of the  sugar may now be boiled for one minute in the remaining pint of water.  When this has cooled, add it to the rest. Refit the lock or plug the neck of  the jar with fresh cotton wool. After this, the wine should be left in a  warm place until all fermentation has ceased.

NOTE: If there is not quite enough space for all of this last lot of syrup,  put the remainder in a sterilized screw-top bottle and store for a few days  in a cool place. This may be added when fermentation has reduced the  level of the liquid in the jar. If you have to do this, don’t forget to refit the  lock.

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The short pulp ferment of method

Method 1 makes wines of the heaver type; their flavors are more  pronounced and their color more full than those produced by method 2.  Those wishing for lighter wines more suitable for serving with meals  should use method 2. The main difference in the two methods is that we  ferment the fruit pulp itself in method 1, and the juice only in method 2.  It  will be appreciated that when fermenting the pulp we must as a matter of  course get far more from our fruits. But we do not want too much in a  light wine otherwise the subtle difference between a heavier wine and the  popular lighter wines is lost.

The short pulp ferment of method 1 ensures that we get all the flavour  and desirable chemical matter from our fruits in the right proportion.

The best method to use for each type of fruit is given with each recipe. It  should be taken into account that varied amounts of fruit and sugar with  the use of proper method produce distinctly different types of wine.

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Campden Fruit-Preserving Tablets

The sulphiting method is used by the trade, so we shall be following a method well tried and proved.

By the sulphiting method you can make hundreds of gallons of wines with the same unfailing success.
There is record i found here
United States Patent 4102911.
Sulfonating or sulfating method, Abstract:
A method for reacting sulfur trioxide and sulfateable or sulfonateable liquid organic compounds such as alcohols, and unsaturated or aromatic compounds is disclosed which comprises contacting said organic liquid with a gaseous mixture of from 2 to 20% by volume of sulfur trioxide and the balance an inert gas diluent, in a vertical cylindrical reaction zone that is at least about 25 mm. in diameter and comprises a straight cylinder having a gas-liquid contact length of at least 1.5 meters and having an annular inlet means for the liquid at the lower end of the reaction zone; the contact being effected by means of an upward stream of the gaseous mixture having sufficient velocity to form the liquid into a rising annular film throughout the length of the zone.
Another Patent;

United States Patent 5077060
Method of inducing the decarboxylation of malic acid in must or fruit juice, Abstract:
In a method of inducing decarboxylation of malic acid in must or fruit juice (also known as maloactic fermentation), must or fruit juice is directly inoculated with a culture of viable malolatic bacteria of the genus Lactobacillus, the bacteria being capable of decarboxylating malic acid at a pH below about 3.2 without any significant consumption of sugar present in the must or fruit juice and substantially without any production of volatile acidity. The malolactic bacteria may be added before or at the commencement of alcoholic fermentation. One malolatic strain suitable in the method is Lactobacillus plantarum DSM 4361.

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How much Campden Tablets ?

When first preparing a must, I add 1 campden tablet per gallon when I add my pectic enzyme powder. This kills any wild yeast which my be on the skins of the fruit. At each rack I add ½ to 1 campden tablet per gallon. The fermentation helps protect the wine. After fermentation is complete, I rack it a final time and put it in a cool place to settle and clear. At this final rack I add 1 Campden tablet per gallon. I also often add a further ½ tablet per gallon at bottling, for wines which I fear could oxidize easily (i.e., low acid wines). It is perfectly acceptable, however, to add as many as two Campden tablets per gallon at every racking, up to four tablets per gallon total. Although I find this excessive.

Number of Campden Tablets Required to Produce Adequate Levels of Sulphur Dioxide in Wine or Must. (displayed in parts per million)

Litres of Wine	1	4	8	16	23	46	50
No. of SO2 tabs
¼	        57	14.3	7.2	3.5	2.5	1.2	1.1
½	        114	28.5	14.3	7.2	5	2.5	2.3
¾	                42.8	21.4	10.7	7.4	3.7	3.4
1	                57	28.5	14	10	5	4.5
1½	                85.5	42.8	21.4	14.9	7.4	6.8
2	                114	57	28.5	19.8	9.9	9.1
2½	                        71.3	35.6	24.8	12.4	11.4
3	                        85.5	42.8	29.7	14.9	13.7
3½	                        99.8	49.9	34.7	17.3	16
4	                        114	57	39.7	19.8	18.2
4½	                                64.1	44.6	22.3	20.5
5	                                71.3	49.6	24.8	22.8
6	                                85.5	59.5	29.7	27.4
7	                                99.8	69.4	34.7	31.9
8	                                114	79.3	39.7	36.5
9	                                        89.2	44.6	41
10	                                        99.1	49.6	45.6
15	                                                74.3	68.4
20	                                                99.1	91.2	

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Sulphites usage in Wine

Just in case you happen to be one of those people who, even in these enlightened  days, abhors the use of chemicals, let me assure you that sulphur dioxide (the  solution which results when Campden tablets are dissolved) is quite harmless to  humans when used in the proportions recommended. Indeed, as many as eight  tablets (thirty two grains) may be  used with safety, but such heavy dosing would prevent a ‘must’ fermenting.
Why are sulphites used in wine?

Metabisulphites are used in wine for two reasons:

1 To help prevent oxidation; and

2 To kill bacteria and any yeast except wine yeast; i.e., bread yeast, beer yeast, and wild yeasts. Wine yeast can tolerate moderate levels of SO2 without effect on performance.

Ancient winemakers produced sulphur dioxide by burning brimstone. The SO2 modern winemakers use comes in the form of sodium metabisulphite (powder or crystals) or potassium metabisulphite (campden tablets). While sodium metabisulphite can be used in winemaking, I generally use it for sterilizing equipment by dissolving 50 grams in 4 litres of water. Be sure to rinse equipment well after using this solution.

It is better to use potassium metabisulphite in your wine.

*It comes in pre-measured tablets (1 campden tab per gallon adds 50 ppm SO2 to your wine).
*It doesn’t add sodium to your diet.
*It’s more widely available.

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Campden Tablets Usage

When you walk over  just a little bit, you will see that there are ingredient kits containing Acid Blend, Yeast Nutrient, Pectic Enzyme, Wine Tannin, Campden Tablets, Pottasium Sorbate and Yeast Pack.
Sulfite has been used since the early days of winemaking as a preservative to protect wines from oxidation and microbial spoilage. For home winemaking, sulfite is commonly sourced from potassium or sodium metabisulfite powder or from sodium metabisulfite tablets, known as Campden tablets. Although potassium metabisulfite Campden tablets are now appearing on the market, they are still not very accessible to home winemakers. Some winemakers prefer adding the potassium form to limit the amount of sodium intake in their diets.
Each Campden fruit-preserving tablet contains four grains of sodium  metabisulphite; therefore, any readers finding Campden tablets in short  supply may ask their chemist for four grains of sodium metabisluphite (or  potassium metabisulphite-there being two forms), and use this. But  because a chemist would find a single order of four grains rather trivial, it  would be best to ask for say, six or ten packets each containing four  grains. If you are making two-gallon lots of wine the amount to use would be eight grains. Do not be tempted to buy by the ounce and  measure out a grain as this is impossible unless you have the appropriate  scales.

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